Hopefully this will save someone some money. All the dashboard lights (instrument cluster, radio buttons, heating control, etc) developed some weird intermittent fault, where sometimes their backlights would not work at all, preventing me from seeing important things like the speedometer, when driving in the dark. There was some strange interaction with the windscreen wipers and possibly the head lights. The Skoda garage wanted £80 or so just do go through their diagnosis process, so I decided to try to fix it myself.
The first thing I found was that the dash light dimming was not working at all. This lead me to suspect that the dimmer was at fault.
Get this switch panel out by pushing the headlight switch IN from the 'off' position, then turning clockwise slightly, before pulling the whole assembly out (I found this out in one of the many fact-filled threads at www.briskoda.net).
Getting the dimmer control PCB out was quite difficult:
The dimmer control came out by prizing the plastic where the dimmer 'module' goes into the front panel with a small flat screwdriver. I couldn't help but damage the plastic, but it's not visible in normal use. I had to put 2 screwdrivers in at once on one side, releasing that, then go on to the opposite side.
The dimmer module itself was also a pain to get apart. A similar technique to above, again using two very small screwdrivers, allowed the two halves of this to come apart (the top half comes off vertically in the image).
The module came in half, and looked like this. The PCB is held in place by small plastic hooks that can be bent out of the way slightly. Turn the board over to reveal...
An Infineon BTS730 high-side power switch with built-in PWM generator. I was able to probe this with a multimeter, and found that in the fault state, although the device was receiving ~12 volts across its power rails, it did not seem to be doing anything (I also made sure the control potentiometer wiper was varying as expected, to rule out a dirty potentiometer track). I replaced the part with another one from an (incompatible, see below) dimmer module I bought on eBay, and it had the same problem. I decided to simply bridge pins on the chip so that the supply voltage is always passed to the LEDs in the dash board. This meant connecting pins 7 and 8, but I decided to bridge all of pins 4-17:
Putting it all back together, the dashboard came back to life. The dimmer of course doesn't work, but ~6 months later everything is still working well. I never had the dimmer below maximum anyway.
I did try just getting a spare from eBay and the scrap yard. A Fabia light switch panel from eBay had slightly different version, which turned out to have a different connector (I stupidly bought this before taking my own one apart):
As well as different internals (although using the same IC for dimming):
I tried taking the IC from this one, but the problem remained, so presumably the Fabia I took it from had the same issue. I also got what looked to be the same thing from an Audi A4 Estate in the local scrap yard (a lot of parts like this have Skoda, Audi, SEAT, and VW stamps in the plastic moulding, as many parts are shared between these companies), but this turned out to have completely different circuitry, despite having a very similar connector:
Like I said, hopefully this fix saves someone some money at some point. If you're going to alter your car's electrics, make sure you have some idea of what you are doing. A short circuit could easily cause damage to some other system in the car. I have not described all the measurements I took to find this fault; you will need to make sure you are happy with what you are doing if you are going to try to make this repair yourself.
Title?
Since I use Google to find out pretty much everything, I thought I should have a page of things I had to work out for myself because 'the internet' didn't seem to know. Now it will.
Monday, 9 July 2012
Saturday, 7 July 2012
Marzocchi open bath oil seal removal
My 2000 Marzocchi Z1 CR open bath mountain bike forks spewed oil out of one of the legs. This apparently happens because damage to the stanchions damages the oil seals, which then leak oil during fork compression. The service manual available from Enduro Fork Seals is good, but the stage for removing the old oil seals proved to be pretty much impossible using the screwdriver method suggested:
Top: Screwdriver wrapped in tape. Middle: Tyre lever. Bottom: Spanner wrapped in tape
The screwdriver didn't move the seals at all (tape is important so as to not damage the upper edge of the fork, where the dust seal sits), and was actually bending. The tyre lever idea suggested somewhere on singletrackworld forums sounded good, making damaging the fork lower impossible, but the lever was going to fold in half before budging the seal (kind of predictable given that the screwdriver was bending I suppose). My spanner idea worked well. A bit of cardboard protected the floor, and a socket extension stopped the spanner falling over while prizing the seal out with my weight on the spanner. I used an 11/16" spanner, not wanting to risk damage to a useful metric spanner.
(It worked best with the spanner the way up shown in the first of these two photos).
Putting weight near the taped end of the spanner allowed the seal to be prized off pretty easily by carefully pulling back (left) on the fork lower, then rotating it ~120 degrees, and repeating, until the seal came gently out.
I did try heating the whole thing up with hot water, but this didn't seem to make it any easier.
I accept no responsibility if you snap your fork, poke yourself in the eye, burst into flames, or whatever, if using this method. The safest plan is to just take the fork to a shop to be serviced.
[edit] Check out the 3rd post in this thread... this is why I gave up on the screwdriver method! [/edit]
Top: Screwdriver wrapped in tape. Middle: Tyre lever. Bottom: Spanner wrapped in tape
The screwdriver didn't move the seals at all (tape is important so as to not damage the upper edge of the fork, where the dust seal sits), and was actually bending. The tyre lever idea suggested somewhere on singletrackworld forums sounded good, making damaging the fork lower impossible, but the lever was going to fold in half before budging the seal (kind of predictable given that the screwdriver was bending I suppose). My spanner idea worked well. A bit of cardboard protected the floor, and a socket extension stopped the spanner falling over while prizing the seal out with my weight on the spanner. I used an 11/16" spanner, not wanting to risk damage to a useful metric spanner.
(It worked best with the spanner the way up shown in the first of these two photos).
Putting weight near the taped end of the spanner allowed the seal to be prized off pretty easily by carefully pulling back (left) on the fork lower, then rotating it ~120 degrees, and repeating, until the seal came gently out.
I did try heating the whole thing up with hot water, but this didn't seem to make it any easier.
I accept no responsibility if you snap your fork, poke yourself in the eye, burst into flames, or whatever, if using this method. The safest plan is to just take the fork to a shop to be serviced.
[edit] Check out the 3rd post in this thread... this is why I gave up on the screwdriver method! [/edit]
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